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Gardens to reduce stress may include zen principles such as simplicity (Kanso), austerity (koko), or naturalness (Shizen).  While zen gardens have come to refer to raked gardens of sand, these stress-reducing gardens are much different.  They often are similar to any other woodland or flower garden, only emphasizing certain design principles or colors.

•    Primary colors can be divided into warm (red, orange, yellow) and cool (green, blue , violet).  Cool colors are more soothing.  You may use a warm color for accent or focal point, but use only one plant, or less than five percent of the overall design.

•    Use tints (lighter) or shades (darker) of the above primary cool colors, or pastels (light combinations of colors).

•    Avoid white, as it is a powerful color attracting your attention and creating divisions among other colors. Grays or silvers are more calming.

•    When combining colors, use adjacent ones on the color wheel such as green and blue, or blue and violet.  These create interest, yet are more serene than contrasting opposite colors such as blue and yellow.

•    Similar to color, avoid large contrasts in other design principles such as heights and textures.  Plants of a more uniform height are more soothing than big ones next to little ones.  Texture is the visual appearance plants create, such as a fine texture from tiny leaves or ferns, or coarse texture from large leaves such as castor bean.  

•    Just as a horizon on the ocean is more soothing than the upright pillars in a cathedral, so are horizontal lines in a design.  These could be from uniform heights of plants, a trimmed hedge, the top of a wall, or even a view of the horizon in the distance.

•    Curves and rounded lines are more soothing than sharp, straight edges and geometric shapes.  Keep these in mind when making edges to beds and borders, or paths.  Beds that are rounded or versions of ellipses, such as a kidney-shaped island bed for perennials or daffodils, are more soothing than square or rectangular beds such as for roses or tulips.  Some plants lend themselves more to one bed type than another.  

•    We often return to nature for peacefulness.  How is this created?  Nature uses large numbers or masses of plants, totally informal or placed at random, in large swaths.  This may seem peaceful to some, but not to others.  To others who like the appearance of control, discrete plants with space and mulch between may seem more pleasing and calming.  This control can be seen in Japanese gardens, with their trees and shrubs clipped into precise shapes.  Whether control or natural abandon is pleasing and calming depends on one's personality type.  What personality are you?

•    The sound of gentle water is soothing, so incorporate a small stream or bubbling water feature in your garden.  Avoid gushing fountains or waterfalls if you want relaxation.  

•    Scent is the most powerful sense, so incorporate pleasing scents in your garden.  Which scents are pleasing may vary as well with personality.  Some scents such as lavender actually can physically help you relax from breathing their essential oils.

•    Don't forget the sense of touch.  Use plants with soft, velvety leaves, or at least not ones with thorns!

•    Following zen principles, a simple garden is often a peaceful one.  Less is indeed more in this case.  Use few plants, or at least few types of plants. In a woodland, this might be a few wildflowers, with the rest leaf litter.  In a shade garden you may simply have moss on the ground (the simplicity, horizontal effect, soft touch, and green color all soothe).  

•    Using fewer plants also means less maintenance.  Or choose plants that require the least maintenance, such as pruning or staking.  This often means choosing the right plant for the right place.  You want to be able to stroll through and enjoy your garden, not constantly be reminded about what is out of control.  This is not relaxing!

•    Similarly, only plant what you can maintain.  Too large a space or too many beds that easily get out of control and weedy won’t be relaxing to look at.

•    If you are in a busy or noisy area, such as a city, surround the garden with a hedge of plants, wooden fence, or even an earthen berm if space allows.  These will provide both a visual and sound barrier to the outside world, a principle often found in Japanese gardens.  This means of escape, of shutting out the chaos and distractions, is crucial.

Begonias are an easy houseplant for beginners, with a range of species and selections for the more advanced gardeners.  Some are grown for flowers, others for their foliage.  They come in a range of sizes, shapes, and habit, from upright to spreading.  Many tolerate low light, and they have few if any pests. 

           

Let’s deal first with the main need for begonias indoors, especially in buildings with forced air heat, that being to increase humidity levels around plants.  You can keep a misting bottle (as found in hardware or home stores) nearby and mist plants daily.  If this will harm walls or furniture, try a humidifier (this will help the air for you as well).  Placing plants on a tray of pebbles, and keeping this moist by watering the pebbles every day or two helps.  If plants are under lights, or some form of plant stand, you can place plastic over and around this to maintain higher humidity within the “tent.”  Many begonias will tolerate some dry air, but won’t thrive.             Keep plants watered, but not too wet.  If in doubt, don’t water.  Let soil dry between watering, then water thoroughly so water drains out the bottom of pots.  But don’t let plants sit in a saucer of water.  You can place water in a saucer under pots, letting the soil wick-up and absorb the water, just make sure to drain any left after an hour or two.  

            
So what soil mix is best for begonias?  Use a soil-less mix, one formulated just for indoor plants and usually containing peat moss and perlite or vermiculite.  Don’t use amendments as you would in the garden, such as compost, nor garden soil.  These may be good in the garden but behave quite differently in pots, keeping plants too wet and often introducing diseases.  
                       
Begonias don’t like too large of a pot, preferring to be pot bound.  If you have a plant that takes days to dry out, perhaps the pot is too big and you should repot into a smaller pot.  If pots are too large, the mix remains wet for too long and often leads to root diseases. 
            
Provide fertilizer (according to label directions on product of your choice) when plants are growing.  This actually might be in winter when leaves are off trees and more light may come in windows or be reflected off snow outside.  Perhaps better when fertilizing is to use a product at reduced strength, but more often. 
            
Begonias like it warm, not being happy below about 55 degrees (F).  More ideal are temperatures between 62 and 72 degrees, with some difference between day and night.  
            
Light preference varies with the type of begonia, so look for this on labels, in catalogs, online, books, or ask your garden retailer for advice.  You usually won’t go wrong using bright natural light, but little direct sun (such as an east window) or filtered sun (as with sheer window drapes).  Too much direct sun can “burn” leaves, causing discoloration or browning. 
            
Good for most begonias is a supplemental light stand, which could be as simple as inexpensive shop lights with fluorescent tubes.  Suspend these over plants, a few inches between the tops of plants and light tubes.  Or you can use directed spot fixtures with full-spectrum light bulbs, if possible.  Keep any lights on for about 14 hours a day, or in the evening to supplement daylight from windows during short winter days.  Inexpensive timers from hardware or home stores work well for controlling lights. 
            
If you end up with leaves staying too wet, as in a tented structure, a whitish disease called “powdery mildew” may cover leaf surfaces.  Keep the plants drier and this should disappear.  While begonias get few if any pests, keep an eye out for small white cottony masses, particularly where leaves join stems.  These “mealybugs” are easily controlled by dabbing them with rubbing alcohol. 
            
If begonias get too tall and leggy, you can root cuttings for more or replacement plants.  Or just cut (“pinch”) plants back to the desired height, from which point they’ll grow sideshoots.  If rooting cuttings, place in a mix of sand and peat moss, or perlite, keep moist, and keep humid as in a clear plastic bag over the pot (but check daily to make sure plants are too wet).  Too tall and leggy may indicate too low light or too much fertility, or old plants needing rejuvenation. 
            
The begonia family is huge, with over 1,600 species and thousands of selections.  Some are grouped by root type.  Those growing from a swollen yet flattened, brown tuber structure-- the tuberous begonias-- are best grown outdoors in summer in shade.  Those from an enlarged underground stem or rhizome, or those with fine fibrous roots, generally grow well indoors.  While the former are usually grown for their leaves and tolerate lower light conditions, the fibrous are usually flowering species for bright light. 
            
You may see begonias grouped by habit, such as spreading, shrub, thick-stemmed, or cane types. Some recommend the shrub and cane types as better choices for indoors. The shrub begonias have multiple canes from the base to make a rounded plant.  Cane begonias have tough jointed stems (think of bamboo canes).  Another simple grouping consists of the flowering types, and those grown for the foliage.  
            
Of the foliage begonias, the most common are the Rex begonias with their large leaves, perhaps 6 inches wide, in various shapes, and even more striking colors including reds, silver, green, pink, purple, and gray.  These are usually rhizomatous, and often need more humidity and moisture than other begonias. All the variations you’ll find descend from one ancestor, a species native to the northeastern Indian state of Assam. 
            
Of the flowering types, the most common may be the fibrous-rooted wax-leaf (often called semperflorens from the species name), and cane-type angel wing begonias.  The names are descriptive of their leaves, and their small flowers come in various colors of reds, pink, and white.  These are often the types you see and use in summer gardens, and which can be potted before frost in fall and brought indoors.  
            

Elatior begonias are another flowering type, being semi-tuberous and specially developed for long flowering indoors.  Angel wing have winged-shaped leaves, often with white or silver markings.  These two types, the angel wing and wax-leaf, have been crossed to make the Dragon Wing begonia.  They have the leaf shape of angel wing, but are green with no markings.               Another rather new and popular type, with solid green angel-shaped wings, is the Bolivian begonia, found growing naturally on the cliffs of Argentina.  These are great in hanging baskets or pots, reaching up to 2-feet across and covered in flowers all summer.  Popular examples are the bright orange Bonfire and scarlet red 'Santa Cruz Sunset'.

Houseplants drop leaves for many reasons, but most are related to improper attention or poor growing conditions. Often just giving vegetation the correct light and temperature, or controlling infestations, is all that is required to prevent future leaf drop.

Either too much or too little watering may cause leaf drop. A common problem is that whenever you see leaves bad or even fall off, you may well be tempted to think the plant is parched and needs more normal water. This might lead to overwatering sometimes more leaves dropping. Generate sure when watering, especially in northern climates in winter, to use heated water. Icy cold drinking water can chill the ground and injure roots of tropical plants, leading to root rots, leaves falling, and perhaps even deceased plants.

Extremely low moisture will cause sensitive plant life, such as gardenia, shed leaves although most common houseplants will not show leaf drop in response to low humidity only.
Fertility, or rather insufficient sufficient nutrients, can lead to leaf drop. With this, usually you will notice leaves lighter in color first, so you have a chance to correct this before leaves totally turn yellow and drop. Use a houseplant fertilizer, according to packaging directions, particularly while crops are growing or blooming.

Plants in pots that are too small may drop leaves. Why? Mainly because there may well not be enough root room to back up all the leaves the pink tries to form, so the oldest leaves drop off. Because the space for the roots is inadequate, the plant may well not have the ability to absorb enough drinking water and nutrients.

Some tea leaf drop occurs when vegetation are subjected to a major change in environment. Many of these changes occur when plant life grown outside for the summer are brought inside for the winter. Greenhouse-grown plants may drop leaves if located in dimly lit house conditions, when they've been grown in high light. Some vegetation just may require higher light to grow and maintain all their leaves. Leaf drop brought on by a change in environment should be momentary and non-life threatening (to the plants), new leaves forming that are tailored to the new site.

Chilling is one cause of leaf drop related to environment. Tropical plant life are sensitive to low, but above freezing, conditions. Plants on windowsills may be exposed to relaxing temperatures. Hot or chilly drafts may be a problem for some crops. The poinsettia is a prime example of a plant that drops leaves due to exposure to cold drafts of air.

Insects and diseases can cause leaf drop, but are less common as the previously listed triggers. Recently I a new variegated English ivy that was losing leaves. In closer inspection I found leaves infested with index mites. Washing plants well with mildly soapy drinking water is a good start, and often all that is needed, for infestations control.

Some leaf drop on houseplants is normal. Older plants should be expected to drop a leaf or two at times. This really is particularly the circumstance with plants that expand upright like umbrella herb or cane plant, burning off lower leaves as more recent ones form on the top. The only alternatives with this are to stake crops and live with this habit, to propagate new plants by air layering the canes, or to give away the flower and get a new more compact one.

Washing bird feeders, giving your houseplants proper water, and checking your inventory of seeds and supplies are a few of the gardening activities with this month.

It's midwinter, and birds have been browsing your feeder for a few months. Yet , unless you've recently been cleaning your feeder regularly, it can be making many of these rough outdoors birds sick. To decrease the spread of disease, empty and disinfect the feeder monthly with a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Clean droppings off of the perching area and make sure your bird food isn't moldy. If you don't like to use bleach, a household medical disinfectant cleaning product such as Lysol works too, diluted half with water. Let to soak for 15 minutes, then rinse extensively.

If your indoor fig (Ficus) tree is beginning to drop leaves, it could be credited to your watering timetable. This includes the common Benjamin fig and plastic plant. Don't over drinking water, and don't allow vegetable stand in a saucer of water for a long length of time or its roots may be damaged. However, don't let soil dry out completely either. Try to keep the soil evenly humid, watering thoroughly and then allowing the extra water to drain. Delay until the dirt dries out slightly to the touch before sprinkling again.

If your houseplants are growing tall and leggy, they probably need some supplemental light. Employ lights to help pay for short days. You can use fluorescent pipes, or most any place lamp. Best are those listed as "full spectrum" or "daylight" or similar wording. I like to use light fixtures that clamp onto a furniture or similar extending surface. Place the lights four to six inches above the tops of the plants, and keep them on for about sixteen hours a day by using a timer sold at hardware or home stores.

African violets make great houseplants and will flower in the wintertime if given supplemental light as noted above for leggy houseplants. To propagate new plants, take a loose tea leaf cutting, dip the trim end in a rooting hormone powder, and stay the cutting in a pot filled with vermiculite or sand. Cover the pot with a cut clear plastic bag and keep the soil wet. In a few several weeks you'll have new plant life.

It's time to draw out the seed-starting equipment. Take inventory of plastic trays, pots, and six-packs from past years and eliminate any that are broke. Reduce risk of disease by soaking them in a solution of 12 % bleach and drinking water, or half-strength household medical disinfectant, then air dry.

Perform a germination test on stored seeds to see how viable they are. Place 10 or 20 seeds between two linens of moist paper hand towel and tuck into a loosely tied plastic tote. Put in place a warm area, and check every few days. If perhaps germination is less than 80 percent, consider purchasing new seeds of the plant.

CARING FOR CUT TULIPS 

Good are a great choice for their fruit, as well as shrubs for your landscape. Their fruits and veggies are easy to choose, freeze, have many uses, and be noticeable among vegetables for their high content of antioxidants--those chemicals that slow aging that help your immune system combat infections. Blueberry bushes are easy to grow, have few problems if any, with attractive glossy oriental leaves in summer turning a beautiful red in fall. When choosing which blueberries to grow, first determine which group you want. There are many cultivars to choose from within each of these groups, varying mainly in time of bloom and fruit size.

You'll be wanting to choose at least 2 if not 3 different ones for cross pollination, unless they are one of the few listed as "self fertile" or "self-fruitful". Help to make sure to choose ones from the same group as, for instance, a lowbush won't pollinate a highbush type. Make sure too that they are listed to bloom at the same time. You will find cultivars (cultivated varieties) listed as early, core, or late season. Even though this often identifies maturing of the berries, comparative bloom time is identical except for some commercial cultivars. So the bees can move the pollen among your different shrubbery, plant them near each other, or preferably intermixed.

There are five main groups of blueberries, addressing three main species. 3 of such groups are suited to northern gardens. In the South you will see rabbiteye and southern highbush cultivars, which aren't robust in the north. That they can't survive below about zero to -10 degrees (F) minimum winter temperatures.

Hardiest of the blueberries, the lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium) would be the fruits those in cooler climates wish to pick from the wild. Native People in the usa dried the berries and pounded them into "moosemeat" -- a substance they used to make pemmican. Wild lowbush blueberries are grown commercially in certain upper states, particularly in Maine. They're grown more in the coldest northern parts, not merely as they are more hardy (zones 3 to 7), but that being only a foot possibly even high and usually under snow they survive better than highbush cultivars. Space these about 2 to 3 foot apart. Gardeners who develop wild blueberries in their backyards can anticipate about a pint of berries for each and every foot of row in late July to Aug.

There are only a few cultivars for berry, and a few picked for ornamental use as low, massed groundcovers or even as a vegetable for large containers. In the event growing in containers, give some winter protection such as an unheated car port, or bury pots (ofcourse not tops) in the fragment pile. 'Top Hat' is a mounded cultivar under two feet tall and wide. 'Burgundy' has a wonderful dark red fall foliage color, and grows about one foot high and about one meter wide.

The Northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) is the most popular blueberry plant in many areas, both for home gardeners and commercial farmers. They may be the ones you find at u-pick farms. The shrubbery grow from 6 to 15 feet high, and produce large berries midsummer in zones 4 to 7 usually (-20s to 10 degrees minimum winter temperatures). Yields vary extensively among the cultivars, but most gardeners can anticipate from 5 to 15 pounds per bush.

Although less hardy than the lowbush, some cultivars of the highbush grow well in zone 3 (-30 degrees) when planted in a spot sheltered from the wind. They usually develop areas with growing periods of at least one hundred sixty days between frosts. A large number of cultivars require a relaxing length of 600 or more hours below 45? Farrenheit, making them unsuitable for hot and mild environments.

Some of the more popular highbush cultivars include the early-season 'Duke', 'Bluecrop' in mid-season and 'Jersey' in late mid-season, 'Nelson' in late-season, and 'Elliott' in very late- season. If you only have room for starters, look for the self-fruitful 'Bluetta'. Intended for really red fall leaves look for 'Brigitta', 'Hardyblue', 'Legacy', or 'Reka'. A few of the major fruits can be found on 'Chandler. '

Crosses between highbush and lowbush good have triggered several lower cultivars than highbush, but taller than the lowbush, which are often classified as "half-high hybrids". Being not as long (3 to 4 feet) and so more guarded by snow in the north, they often make it through better there than many highbush cultivars. They develop in zones 3 to 7. Yields on these generally range from 2 to 8 pounds every bush.

Most of the half-high cultivars are self-fruitful, but even these will have larger fruits and better yields if more than one cultivar is nearby. 'Chippewa, 'Polaris', and 'St. Cloud' require another cultivar for cross pollination. Some popular cultivars in this group include the early 'Patriot', the early on mid-season 'Northland', and the mid-season 'North Sky'. 'Friendship' is one of the few late-season cultivars.
The moment choosing blueberry bushes, to make their culture even easier, look for ones which includes disease resistance, especially to "mummyberry" and originate canker. Mummyberry causes vegetables to show pink prior to ripening, shrivel and show up off (these are known as "mummies"). Stem canker may cause cracks in the canes and then fatality, particularly on Northern highbush cultivars.
When planting, allow sufficient space for experienced growth--5 to 6 ft apart for the highbush, 4 to 5 ft apart for the half-high, and one to 2 feet apart for the lowbush. You could find more on blueberry culture in the Fruit Gardener's Bible, by Lewis Hill and Leonard Perry.

Do you like trivia, or at least learning more about the top-selling holiday plant? If so, perhaps you will be interested in a dozen fun facts about the poinsettia plants you buy and see everywhere each December. 

   
Fact 1: Did you know that the poinsettia's main attraction is not its flowers, but its leaves? The flowers of the plant are the yellow clustered buds in the center (termed “cyathia”). The colored leafy parts are actually bracts or modified leaves, that turn color in response to the plant forming flowers. When buying a poinsettia, make sure it has the buds, preferably not yet open.
   
Fact 2. Red is the most popular color, accounting for roughly three-quarters of all sales nationwide, followed by white and pink. The more than 100 varieties of poinsettias come in a range of colors from red, salmon, and apricot to yellow, cream, and white (but not blue—these are a designer color created with dyes). There are also unusual speckled or marbled varieties with several colors blended together. New varieties are introduced yearly.
   
Fact 3. How many poinsettias do you think are sold in a year? According to the 2014 USDA Floriculture Crops report, poinsettias accounted for about one-fifth (19 percent) of sales of all flowering potted plants. In economic terms, that's $146 million out of a total of $778 million in sales of all flowering potted plants, with about 35 million pots sold.  This makes them the highest selling potted flowering plant.
   
Fact 4. Although every state in the United States grows poinsettias commercially, California is the top producer with almost 7 million pots grown, followed by North Carolina with 4.3 million pots sold, Texas with 3.3 million, Florida with 3.2 million, and Ohio with 2.9 million poinsettias sold.
   
Fact 5. Did you know that in the wild, or planted in tropical climates, the poinsettia can reach heights of 12 feet with leaves measuring six to eight inches across? It is actually a small tropical tree (Euphorbia pulcherrima) belonging to the Euphorbia plant family.
   
Fact 6.  A native of southern Mexico, the poinsettia blooms in December and has been used in that country to decorate churches for centuries. In the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, the Aztecs used the poinsettia leaves to dye fabric for clothing and the sap for medicinal purposes, including to help control fevers. They also considered the red color a symbol of purity, and so poinsettias were traditionally part of religious ceremonies. In Mexico and Guatemala, the poinsettia is called (translated) the “Flower of the Holy Night” referring to Christmas Eve.
   
Fact 7. Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, an amateur botanist and first United States Minister (the position called “ambassador” after 1896) to Mexico, introduced the plant that became known as the poinsettia to this country. He discovered a shrub with brilliantly colored red leaves growing by the side of the road in Taxco, Mexico, in December 1828 and sent cuttings home to his plantation in Greenville, South Carolina.
    Most botanists at that time dismissed the poinsettia as a weed.  Fortunately, Poinsett continued to study and breed this plant in his greenhouse, sharing plants with his horticulturist friends. It soon gained acceptance as a holiday plant, despite its very short bloom time. It wasn't until the 1960s that researchers were able to successfully breed plants to bloom more than just a few days.
   
Fact 8. Here's another bit of interesting trivia. December 12 is National Poinsettia Day (www.poinsettiaday.com/). Never heard of it? Believe it or not, the United States has observed this official day since the mid-1800s. It honors the man and the plant he introduced. Poinsett died on Dec.12, 1851.
   
Fact 9.  For much of the last century, the Paul Ecke Ranch in Southern California produced the majority of poinsettia cuttings and plants purchased in the U.S. and many of those worldwide.  Paul Ecke, Jr. is considered the father of this industry, as it is he who figured out a method for getting poinsettias to branch.  Prior, they grew tall so stems had to be bent back into a loop, or “tromboned,” to keep them at a desirable height.  It is from this plant and firm that the football bowl game in San Diego gets its name.
   
Fact 10. True or False. The poinsettia is a poisonous plant. If you answered false, you're correct. The plant has been tested repeatedly and cleared of this charge by authorities such as the National Poison Center in Atlanta, Georgia, and the American Medical Association. However, this doesn't mean that poinsettias are meant to be eaten. If ingested, this plant can cause stomach irritation and discomfort. Cats and children also may choke on the fibrous parts, so be sure to keep these plants out of their reach. The sticky white sap also may cause skin irritation for some people.
   
Fact 11. Do you know the best way to prolong the life of this Christmas plant? Avoid hot or cold drafts, keep the soil moist not soggy, and place in a room with sufficient natural light and temperatures of around 60 to 70 degrees F. Water when the soil begins to dry. Once the leaves wilt too far, it's too late.
    Above all, protect it from exposure to wind or cold on the way home from the store. Poinsettias are highly sensitive to cold temperatures and even a few minutes of exposure to 50-degrees F or lower temperatures will cause them to wilt. But when cared for properly, poinsettias usually will outlast your desire to keep them!
   
Fact 12.  The most common question many have is, can I get the poinsettia to rebloom next year, and if so, how?  Yes is the short answer, but it requires some work and regularity. If you want to try though, keep in mind that flowering in this plant responds to short daylengths (or actually long nights).  They need daylight for no more than 10 hours daily, beginning around October 1.  So you’ll need to place plants in a darkened closet or room (with no lights at any time) from about 5pm to 7am or so, daily, for 8 to 10 weeks.   Don’t forget to bring it back into the daylight every day! Even if you are successful, keep in mind that much superior plants will be available from greenhouses and growers, as well as new varieties in all sizes.

Keeping cyclamen cool and consistently moist, poinsettias warm and away from drafts, and making gardening gift idea bins are a couple of the garden-related activities with this month.

Cyclamen are a flowering holiday herb, usually seen during this time of year and winter. The rounded deep leaves usually have silvery markings, and the unique flowers arise above the leaves. Flowers come in reds, purples, pink or white, and last for weeks with proper health care. New buds then happen, so you can get months of bloom.

Couleur like it cool -- right next to the heater isn't a great location. Temperatures in the sixties (F), even 50's, are good. The small tuber is susceptible to decaying so if you have time, water by dipping the pot in dish of water until the soil takes up enough moisture, then remove. In any other case, water slowly so it seeps in and does not lay on the tuber. Produce sure the pot will not sit in a saucer filled with water.

Offer cyclamen bright light. Because flowers and foliage die, you can give the plant a rest by withholding water and keeping it in a cool, dark location until new growth begins.

Poinsettias are the typical holiday vegetable all know and see and it, too, will last for years with proper care. Poinsettias opt to be more dry than wet, so if in doubt don't water. They will like it warmer than cyclamen, but abhor breezes near doors nor too near heat sources like woodstoves. Keep away from pets or children that may chew on leaves. Although not toxic, the white sticky sap may cause vomiting or mouth area irritation.

What gardener on your holiday gift idea list wouldn't appreciate an ornamental basket or pot packed with helpful gardening items? Plus, they're fun to put together. Some what to consider are pruners, an ergonomic trowel, savoury soap, hand lotion, plant seeds, plant tags, paper white narcissus bulbs, rain judge, decorative plant labels, and water-resistant gloves. Use a huge decorative pot, colorful clear plastic garden "trug", or container, and they're going to get use from this too.

There are many garden books to choose from for surprise ideas, both instructive how-to ones and ones to encourage. Consider a couple recommendations by the authors--The Berries Gardener's Bible and Northeast Fruit and Vegetable Growing plants.

The faux clay planting pots made of insulated plastic material are convenient for adding some greenery next to your front door, as are hanging baskets. Avoid use clay, as it can absorb water and split in cold temperatures. Generate use of a 12 or 14-inch size weed or larger, and complete with old soil, peat moss, bark mulch, or whatever material you have on hand that will anchor branches. Prune some branches off evergreen shrubbery to use in the container, adding other produce and berries from local nurseries or florists, and some tiny white signals.

Branches of holly cherries add color among trees outside, until they get cold and turn black. Several faux branches of fruits look remarkably real, and who's going to know when covered with a dusting of snow. Presently there are many other sorts of vertical, glittery or decorative accessories to add that you can find at florists, craft and home stores.

Other garden-related activities for this month include buying some local fir swags or roping for designing, cutting your own Xmas tree, keeping bird feeders replenished daily, potting some paperwhite narcissus or amaryllis bulbs, and checking houseplants for pests.

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