Showing posts with label FLOWERS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FLOWERS. Show all posts

EASY HOUSEPLANTS-- BEGONIAS

14:45 0

Begonias are an easy houseplant for beginners, with a range of species and selections for the more advanced gardeners.  Some are grown for flowers, others for their foliage.  They come in a range of sizes, shapes, and habit, from upright to spreading.  Many tolerate low light, and they have few if any pests. 

           

Let’s deal first with the main need for begonias indoors, especially in buildings with forced air heat, that being to increase humidity levels around plants.  You can keep a misting bottle (as found in hardware or home stores) nearby and mist plants daily.  If this will harm walls or furniture, try a humidifier (this will help the air for you as well).  Placing plants on a tray of pebbles, and keeping this moist by watering the pebbles every day or two helps.  If plants are under lights, or some form of plant stand, you can place plastic over and around this to maintain higher humidity within the “tent.”  Many begonias will tolerate some dry air, but won’t thrive.             Keep plants watered, but not too wet.  If in doubt, don’t water.  Let soil dry between watering, then water thoroughly so water drains out the bottom of pots.  But don’t let plants sit in a saucer of water.  You can place water in a saucer under pots, letting the soil wick-up and absorb the water, just make sure to drain any left after an hour or two.  

            
So what soil mix is best for begonias?  Use a soil-less mix, one formulated just for indoor plants and usually containing peat moss and perlite or vermiculite.  Don’t use amendments as you would in the garden, such as compost, nor garden soil.  These may be good in the garden but behave quite differently in pots, keeping plants too wet and often introducing diseases.  
                       
Begonias don’t like too large of a pot, preferring to be pot bound.  If you have a plant that takes days to dry out, perhaps the pot is too big and you should repot into a smaller pot.  If pots are too large, the mix remains wet for too long and often leads to root diseases. 
            
Provide fertilizer (according to label directions on product of your choice) when plants are growing.  This actually might be in winter when leaves are off trees and more light may come in windows or be reflected off snow outside.  Perhaps better when fertilizing is to use a product at reduced strength, but more often. 
            
Begonias like it warm, not being happy below about 55 degrees (F).  More ideal are temperatures between 62 and 72 degrees, with some difference between day and night.  
            
Light preference varies with the type of begonia, so look for this on labels, in catalogs, online, books, or ask your garden retailer for advice.  You usually won’t go wrong using bright natural light, but little direct sun (such as an east window) or filtered sun (as with sheer window drapes).  Too much direct sun can “burn” leaves, causing discoloration or browning. 
            
Good for most begonias is a supplemental light stand, which could be as simple as inexpensive shop lights with fluorescent tubes.  Suspend these over plants, a few inches between the tops of plants and light tubes.  Or you can use directed spot fixtures with full-spectrum light bulbs, if possible.  Keep any lights on for about 14 hours a day, or in the evening to supplement daylight from windows during short winter days.  Inexpensive timers from hardware or home stores work well for controlling lights. 
            
If you end up with leaves staying too wet, as in a tented structure, a whitish disease called “powdery mildew” may cover leaf surfaces.  Keep the plants drier and this should disappear.  While begonias get few if any pests, keep an eye out for small white cottony masses, particularly where leaves join stems.  These “mealybugs” are easily controlled by dabbing them with rubbing alcohol. 
            
If begonias get too tall and leggy, you can root cuttings for more or replacement plants.  Or just cut (“pinch”) plants back to the desired height, from which point they’ll grow sideshoots.  If rooting cuttings, place in a mix of sand and peat moss, or perlite, keep moist, and keep humid as in a clear plastic bag over the pot (but check daily to make sure plants are too wet).  Too tall and leggy may indicate too low light or too much fertility, or old plants needing rejuvenation. 
            
The begonia family is huge, with over 1,600 species and thousands of selections.  Some are grouped by root type.  Those growing from a swollen yet flattened, brown tuber structure-- the tuberous begonias-- are best grown outdoors in summer in shade.  Those from an enlarged underground stem or rhizome, or those with fine fibrous roots, generally grow well indoors.  While the former are usually grown for their leaves and tolerate lower light conditions, the fibrous are usually flowering species for bright light. 
            
You may see begonias grouped by habit, such as spreading, shrub, thick-stemmed, or cane types. Some recommend the shrub and cane types as better choices for indoors. The shrub begonias have multiple canes from the base to make a rounded plant.  Cane begonias have tough jointed stems (think of bamboo canes).  Another simple grouping consists of the flowering types, and those grown for the foliage.  
            
Of the foliage begonias, the most common are the Rex begonias with their large leaves, perhaps 6 inches wide, in various shapes, and even more striking colors including reds, silver, green, pink, purple, and gray.  These are usually rhizomatous, and often need more humidity and moisture than other begonias. All the variations you’ll find descend from one ancestor, a species native to the northeastern Indian state of Assam. 
            
Of the flowering types, the most common may be the fibrous-rooted wax-leaf (often called semperflorens from the species name), and cane-type angel wing begonias.  The names are descriptive of their leaves, and their small flowers come in various colors of reds, pink, and white.  These are often the types you see and use in summer gardens, and which can be potted before frost in fall and brought indoors.  
            

Elatior begonias are another flowering type, being semi-tuberous and specially developed for long flowering indoors.  Angel wing have winged-shaped leaves, often with white or silver markings.  These two types, the angel wing and wax-leaf, have been crossed to make the Dragon Wing begonia.  They have the leaf shape of angel wing, but are green with no markings.               Another rather new and popular type, with solid green angel-shaped wings, is the Bolivian begonia, found growing naturally on the cliffs of Argentina.  These are great in hanging baskets or pots, reaching up to 2-feet across and covered in flowers all summer.  Popular examples are the bright orange Bonfire and scarlet red 'Santa Cruz Sunset'.

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SECRETS OF CUT TULIPS

14:31 0

CARING FOR CUT TULIPS 

Also though the outdoor scenery may be bleak right now, the greenhouse industry has found a method to bring spring into our homes. And that's by lying to tulips and other spring and coil flowers into blooming early on indoors. When properly maintained, cut tulips will stay fresh in a container of water for eight to ten days.


The cut tulips you will find at your florist shop, local greenhouse, and supermarket earnings season are "forced" tulips which were expanded in greenhouses in america or as far away as the Netherlands. Growers have used special temperature treatments to confuse the organic clocks of the blossoms and force them to bloom over a different routine than they will if cultivated outdoors. It allows them to produce flowers of uniform height and quality for sale during winter months. This is similar to the method you can use at home with potted tulips, inserting them at around 45 degrees (F) in land for at least 12 to 12 weeks before bringing back into friendliness.


For long-lasting tulips, buy ones very "tight" or unopened, with buds still green and just demonstrating some color. Recut the stems when you get them home. Lay the arrangement on its wrapping newspaper or newspaper, or higher a sink, and slice the stems diagonally by using a sharp knife or scissors, removing about one-half inches of stem.

Place the stems directly in the vase, or if keeping for a time just in drinking water, recut the stems before inserting in the last vase. Many recommend slicing stems under water or under electricity, so no air enters the comes to block this particular ships there. Make sure the vase is clean before using.

Fill the flower vase with lukewarm water, not ice cold, which is taken up better by the stems. Use a floral preservative-- a powder-like mixture of plant food and bacteria inhibitors-- available at all floral shops, and often coming with the bouquet you buy in stores.

Although a lot of people assume that adding a splash of carbonated lemon-lime softdrink, a teaspoon of sugar, a penny, or even a lttle bit of bleach to this particular will help extend the life of the blossoms, none of such folk remedies are as effective as commercial cut flower food. While some admit a preservative is unnecessary for cut tulips, research released in 2012 (Kumar while others, Journal of Applied Horticulture) showed that any of 10 different preservatives stored flowers longer than if just in water.

The general guideline for organizing flowers would be that the bouquet should be about one and one-half times the elevation of the vase. Tulip glasses work well in large, straight vases, although they can be arranged in admirer condition in a low, wide bowl. Intended for the latter you should have to keep the flowers set up, anchoring with a florist "frog" or block of florist foam, these placed to the bottom of the vase to support the arrangement. Don't combine tulips with cut daffodils, as these exude a sap that clogs the water uptake of other flowers.

Make sure and check the water level daily, as tulips use much water, and for longest life an specific want the vase to be dried out. Place the bouquet out of direct sun, and away from heating vents or drafts. Top off the water level daily to keep the arrangement fresh, and replace every 3 to 4 days or mainly because it becomes cloudy.

A great interesting fact about tulip glasses is that they carry on and grow after being lower, up to an inches or even more. They are "phototropic", bending on the light, so rotate containers daily to keep stems more erect.


Want to buy some cut tulips for Valentines day, but not sure about the colour? Then consider these facts from a research study published completely on color preferences (by Yue and Behe in the HortScience journal). Both women and men select a red or dureté color most often then, and then a peach or pink color. This makes sense, since red is considered a color to express love. Yellow was your least chosen color then, as well as overall through the yr.

Of buyers of trim flowers through the 12 months, 70 percent were girls and 30 percent men. Women bought 44 percent of cut flowers for themselves, 56 percent for gifts with only six percent bought on Valentines day Day. Only 6 percent of purchases by men of cut flowers through the year were for themselves, 96 percent bought for gifts, with 3 percent with their annual purchases on Valentine's.

Whilst cut tulips are a lower cost flower surprise for Valentine's Day supplying, and make great products through the winter and into spring too, you may find tulips selected and planted in pots. If buying these, similar to the cut tulips, buy with buds still unopened, and keep in cooler conditions for longest life. As most tulips aren't perennial, they likely won't rebloom in future years if planted outdoors in springtime.

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BLUEBERRIES

14:27 0

Good are a great choice for their fruit, as well as shrubs for your landscape. Their fruits and veggies are easy to choose, freeze, have many uses, and be noticeable among vegetables for their high content of antioxidants--those chemicals that slow aging that help your immune system combat infections. Blueberry bushes are easy to grow, have few problems if any, with attractive glossy oriental leaves in summer turning a beautiful red in fall. When choosing which blueberries to grow, first determine which group you want. There are many cultivars to choose from within each of these groups, varying mainly in time of bloom and fruit size.


You'll be wanting to choose at least 2 if not 3 different ones for cross pollination, unless they are one of the few listed as "self fertile" or "self-fruitful". Help to make sure to choose ones from the same group as, for instance, a lowbush won't pollinate a highbush type. Make sure too that they are listed to bloom at the same time. You will find cultivars (cultivated varieties) listed as early, core, or late season. Even though this often identifies maturing of the berries, comparative bloom time is identical except for some commercial cultivars. So the bees can move the pollen among your different shrubbery, plant them near each other, or preferably intermixed.


There are five main groups of blueberries, addressing three main species. 3 of such groups are suited to northern gardens. In the South you will see rabbiteye and southern highbush cultivars, which aren't robust in the north. That they can't survive below about zero to -10 degrees (F) minimum winter temperatures.


Hardiest of the blueberries, the lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium) would be the fruits those in cooler climates wish to pick from the wild. Native People in the usa dried the berries and pounded them into "moosemeat" -- a substance they used to make pemmican. Wild lowbush blueberries are grown commercially in certain upper states, particularly in Maine. They're grown more in the coldest northern parts, not merely as they are more hardy (zones 3 to 7), but that being only a foot possibly even high and usually under snow they survive better than highbush cultivars. Space these about 2 to 3 foot apart. Gardeners who develop wild blueberries in their backyards can anticipate about a pint of berries for each and every foot of row in late July to Aug.

There are only a few cultivars for berry, and a few picked for ornamental use as low, massed groundcovers or even as a vegetable for large containers. In the event growing in containers, give some winter protection such as an unheated car port, or bury pots (ofcourse not tops) in the fragment pile. 'Top Hat' is a mounded cultivar under two feet tall and wide. 'Burgundy' has a wonderful dark red fall foliage color, and grows about one foot high and about one meter wide.

The Northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) is the most popular blueberry plant in many areas, both for home gardeners and commercial farmers. They may be the ones you find at u-pick farms. The shrubbery grow from 6 to 15 feet high, and produce large berries midsummer in zones 4 to 7 usually (-20s to 10 degrees minimum winter temperatures). Yields vary extensively among the cultivars, but most gardeners can anticipate from 5 to 15 pounds per bush.

Although less hardy than the lowbush, some cultivars of the highbush grow well in zone 3 (-30 degrees) when planted in a spot sheltered from the wind. They usually develop areas with growing periods of at least one hundred sixty days between frosts. A large number of cultivars require a relaxing length of 600 or more hours below 45? Farrenheit, making them unsuitable for hot and mild environments.

Some of the more popular highbush cultivars include the early-season 'Duke', 'Bluecrop' in mid-season and 'Jersey' in late mid-season, 'Nelson' in late-season, and 'Elliott' in very late- season. If you only have room for starters, look for the self-fruitful 'Bluetta'. Intended for really red fall leaves look for 'Brigitta', 'Hardyblue', 'Legacy', or 'Reka'. A few of the major fruits can be found on 'Chandler. '

Crosses between highbush and lowbush good have triggered several lower cultivars than highbush, but taller than the lowbush, which are often classified as "half-high hybrids". Being not as long (3 to 4 feet) and so more guarded by snow in the north, they often make it through better there than many highbush cultivars. They develop in zones 3 to 7. Yields on these generally range from 2 to 8 pounds every bush.

Most of the half-high cultivars are self-fruitful, but even these will have larger fruits and better yields if more than one cultivar is nearby. 'Chippewa, 'Polaris', and 'St. Cloud' require another cultivar for cross pollination. Some popular cultivars in this group include the early 'Patriot', the early on mid-season 'Northland', and the mid-season 'North Sky'. 'Friendship' is one of the few late-season cultivars.
The moment choosing blueberry bushes, to make their culture even easier, look for ones which includes disease resistance, especially to "mummyberry" and originate canker. Mummyberry causes vegetables to show pink prior to ripening, shrivel and show up off (these are known as "mummies"). Stem canker may cause cracks in the canes and then fatality, particularly on Northern highbush cultivars.
When planting, allow sufficient space for experienced growth--5 to 6 ft apart for the highbush, 4 to 5 ft apart for the half-high, and one to 2 feet apart for the lowbush. You could find more on blueberry culture in the Fruit Gardener's Bible, by Lewis Hill and Leonard Perry.

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FUN FACTS ABOUT POINSETTIAS

14:21 0

Do you like trivia, or at least learning more about the top-selling holiday plant? If so, perhaps you will be interested in a dozen fun facts about the poinsettia plants you buy and see everywhere each December. 

   
Fact 1: Did you know that the poinsettia's main attraction is not its flowers, but its leaves? The flowers of the plant are the yellow clustered buds in the center (termed “cyathia”). The colored leafy parts are actually bracts or modified leaves, that turn color in response to the plant forming flowers. When buying a poinsettia, make sure it has the buds, preferably not yet open.
   
Fact 2. Red is the most popular color, accounting for roughly three-quarters of all sales nationwide, followed by white and pink. The more than 100 varieties of poinsettias come in a range of colors from red, salmon, and apricot to yellow, cream, and white (but not blue—these are a designer color created with dyes). There are also unusual speckled or marbled varieties with several colors blended together. New varieties are introduced yearly.
   
Fact 3. How many poinsettias do you think are sold in a year? According to the 2014 USDA Floriculture Crops report, poinsettias accounted for about one-fifth (19 percent) of sales of all flowering potted plants. In economic terms, that's $146 million out of a total of $778 million in sales of all flowering potted plants, with about 35 million pots sold.  This makes them the highest selling potted flowering plant.
   
Fact 4. Although every state in the United States grows poinsettias commercially, California is the top producer with almost 7 million pots grown, followed by North Carolina with 4.3 million pots sold, Texas with 3.3 million, Florida with 3.2 million, and Ohio with 2.9 million poinsettias sold.
   
Fact 5. Did you know that in the wild, or planted in tropical climates, the poinsettia can reach heights of 12 feet with leaves measuring six to eight inches across? It is actually a small tropical tree (Euphorbia pulcherrima) belonging to the Euphorbia plant family.
   
Fact 6.  A native of southern Mexico, the poinsettia blooms in December and has been used in that country to decorate churches for centuries. In the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, the Aztecs used the poinsettia leaves to dye fabric for clothing and the sap for medicinal purposes, including to help control fevers. They also considered the red color a symbol of purity, and so poinsettias were traditionally part of religious ceremonies. In Mexico and Guatemala, the poinsettia is called (translated) the “Flower of the Holy Night” referring to Christmas Eve.
   
Fact 7. Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, an amateur botanist and first United States Minister (the position called “ambassador” after 1896) to Mexico, introduced the plant that became known as the poinsettia to this country. He discovered a shrub with brilliantly colored red leaves growing by the side of the road in Taxco, Mexico, in December 1828 and sent cuttings home to his plantation in Greenville, South Carolina.
    Most botanists at that time dismissed the poinsettia as a weed.  Fortunately, Poinsett continued to study and breed this plant in his greenhouse, sharing plants with his horticulturist friends. It soon gained acceptance as a holiday plant, despite its very short bloom time. It wasn't until the 1960s that researchers were able to successfully breed plants to bloom more than just a few days.
   
Fact 8. Here's another bit of interesting trivia. December 12 is National Poinsettia Day (www.poinsettiaday.com/). Never heard of it? Believe it or not, the United States has observed this official day since the mid-1800s. It honors the man and the plant he introduced. Poinsett died on Dec.12, 1851.
   
Fact 9.  For much of the last century, the Paul Ecke Ranch in Southern California produced the majority of poinsettia cuttings and plants purchased in the U.S. and many of those worldwide.  Paul Ecke, Jr. is considered the father of this industry, as it is he who figured out a method for getting poinsettias to branch.  Prior, they grew tall so stems had to be bent back into a loop, or “tromboned,” to keep them at a desirable height.  It is from this plant and firm that the football bowl game in San Diego gets its name.
   
Fact 10. True or False. The poinsettia is a poisonous plant. If you answered false, you're correct. The plant has been tested repeatedly and cleared of this charge by authorities such as the National Poison Center in Atlanta, Georgia, and the American Medical Association. However, this doesn't mean that poinsettias are meant to be eaten. If ingested, this plant can cause stomach irritation and discomfort. Cats and children also may choke on the fibrous parts, so be sure to keep these plants out of their reach. The sticky white sap also may cause skin irritation for some people.
   
Fact 11. Do you know the best way to prolong the life of this Christmas plant? Avoid hot or cold drafts, keep the soil moist not soggy, and place in a room with sufficient natural light and temperatures of around 60 to 70 degrees F. Water when the soil begins to dry. Once the leaves wilt too far, it's too late.
    Above all, protect it from exposure to wind or cold on the way home from the store. Poinsettias are highly sensitive to cold temperatures and even a few minutes of exposure to 50-degrees F or lower temperatures will cause them to wilt. But when cared for properly, poinsettias usually will outlast your desire to keep them!
   
Fact 12.  The most common question many have is, can I get the poinsettia to rebloom next year, and if so, how?  Yes is the short answer, but it requires some work and regularity. If you want to try though, keep in mind that flowering in this plant responds to short daylengths (or actually long nights).  They need daylight for no more than 10 hours daily, beginning around October 1.  So you’ll need to place plants in a darkened closet or room (with no lights at any time) from about 5pm to 7am or so, daily, for 8 to 10 weeks.   Don’t forget to bring it back into the daylight every day! Even if you are successful, keep in mind that much superior plants will be available from greenhouses and growers, as well as new varieties in all sizes.
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COOL CYCLAMEN

14:14 0

Keeping cyclamen cool and consistently moist, poinsettias warm and away from drafts, and making gardening gift idea bins are a couple of the garden-related activities with this month.


Cyclamen are a flowering holiday herb, usually seen during this time of year and winter. The rounded deep leaves usually have silvery markings, and the unique flowers arise above the leaves. Flowers come in reds, purples, pink or white, and last for weeks with proper health care. New buds then happen, so you can get months of bloom.


Couleur like it cool -- right next to the heater isn't a great location. Temperatures in the sixties (F), even 50's, are good. The small tuber is susceptible to decaying so if you have time, water by dipping the pot in dish of water until the soil takes up enough moisture, then remove. In any other case, water slowly so it seeps in and does not lay on the tuber. Produce sure the pot will not sit in a saucer filled with water.


Offer cyclamen bright light. Because flowers and foliage die, you can give the plant a rest by withholding water and keeping it in a cool, dark location until new growth begins.

Poinsettias are the typical holiday vegetable all know and see and it, too, will last for years with proper care. Poinsettias opt to be more dry than wet, so if in doubt don't water. They will like it warmer than cyclamen, but abhor breezes near doors nor too near heat sources like woodstoves. Keep away from pets or children that may chew on leaves. Although not toxic, the white sticky sap may cause vomiting or mouth area irritation.

What gardener on your holiday gift idea list wouldn't appreciate an ornamental basket or pot packed with helpful gardening items? Plus, they're fun to put together. Some what to consider are pruners, an ergonomic trowel, savoury soap, hand lotion, plant seeds, plant tags, paper white narcissus bulbs, rain judge, decorative plant labels, and water-resistant gloves. Use a huge decorative pot, colorful clear plastic garden "trug", or container, and they're going to get use from this too.

There are many garden books to choose from for surprise ideas, both instructive how-to ones and ones to encourage. Consider a couple recommendations by the authors--The Berries Gardener's Bible and Northeast Fruit and Vegetable Growing plants.

The faux clay planting pots made of insulated plastic material are convenient for adding some greenery next to your front door, as are hanging baskets. Avoid use clay, as it can absorb water and split in cold temperatures. Generate use of a 12 or 14-inch size weed or larger, and complete with old soil, peat moss, bark mulch, or whatever material you have on hand that will anchor branches. Prune some branches off evergreen shrubbery to use in the container, adding other produce and berries from local nurseries or florists, and some tiny white signals.

Branches of holly cherries add color among trees outside, until they get cold and turn black. Several faux branches of fruits look remarkably real, and who's going to know when covered with a dusting of snow. Presently there are many other sorts of vertical, glittery or decorative accessories to add that you can find at florists, craft and home stores.


Other garden-related activities for this month include buying some local fir swags or roping for designing, cutting your own Xmas tree, keeping bird feeders replenished daily, potting some paperwhite narcissus or amaryllis bulbs, and checking houseplants for pests.

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